Typically, Amish-built garages have always included a heavy duty reinforced wooden floor built to support the weight of a vehicle. However; many town building codes now prohibit a wood floor in any unit which will be used as a garage. No problem! We have been selling floorless garages for several years now, and together with our builder, have structurally perfected them for maximum interior space. 

Floorless storage buildings and garages are available in any style and up to 48' in length. As per our pricelists, we charge an additional fee for the floorless option because the base is upgraded to 6x6 pressure-treated lumber, extra (temporary) bracing is required for transport and more time and labor is involved during the set-up process. That said; if you research how our floorless buildings look and function in comparison to what our competitors offer...the nominal extra cost is well worth it. You also gain an extra 6" of interior space!

CONCRETE SLAB requirements:

The perimeter of the slab should have no pitch to it as the 6x6 pressure-treated base must sit flush against the foundation. There should be no pre-affixed anchors, hooks or obstructions of any kind implanted in the slab prior to delivery. The slab should be no more than 4" above the surrounding ground. Please refer to our Site Preparation page for further information and requirements.

ANCHORING and MOISTURE-PROOFING is the customers responsibility.

Anchoring: Floorless units always require some sort of anchoring. The actual method of anchoring will be determined by your local town building code. Therefore, we cannot tell you what to do or how to do it. We also do not offer anchoring services. However; many of our customers have hired the concrete slab contractor to return and anchor the building for them once it's been installed by us. You can also do it yourself; the following web sites may be helpful for guidance purposes and anchor supplies:

Moisture-proofing: Our floorless unit 6x6 pressure-treated bases are built to sit flush against the concrete slab but they are not automatically water-tight. Water may trickle under if not properly sealed. We recommend running a good long-lasting exterior grade silicone/caulk along the interior and the exterior of the 6x6 pressure-treated base where it meets the concrete slab. Keep in mind that fluctuating temperatures may cause the caulk to contract and expand so more than one application may be needed and it may need to be resealed over time. It's not a guarantee but our previous customers have had great success with this solution.

Unlevel Concrete Slabs: Unfortunately, not every concrete slab we've worked with has been dead level, so there is a possibility that once the building is set, it won't sit completely flush around the entire perimeter. Our recommendation is filling in this 'air space' with spray foam insulation and then moisture-proofing the base as usual. (Of course, there is the occasional concrete slab contractor who would like to say it's the building and not their slab that's off level until we set our level and prove to them that's just not the case!:>) Again, it's not a guarantee and you may find a better solution; but this method has been proven to work for some of our other customers. Dealing with an unlevel stone pad is a more difficult situation.